The Painted Wolves of Laikipia - why Lolldaiga’s wild dogs are making a come back…

There’s something truly magical about encountering African wild dogs, or painted wolves, in their natural element. They are among the most captivating predators you can come across on safari—fiercely loyal to their pack, endlessly curious, and possessing a grace that belies their deadly efficiency. While they won’t ever pose a threat to you, their relentless pursuit of prey offers a heart-racing glimpse into nature’s raw power.

Laikipia, a land where the rules of the wild still apply, offers a rare opportunity to track these elusive creatures. Unlike many species that remain tied to a specific territory, wild dogs are nomadic, covering extraordinary distances as they move through the landscape in search of their next meal. One moment they’re wreaking havoc on an unsuspecting herd of impala, and the next, they’re gone - vanishing into the bush with an uncanny ability to evade detection. When our guests were lucky to see a roving pack in the north of Lolldaiga, they eviscerated four impalas in under 30 minutes - with just a bloody stain on the ground as proof something living had been standing there moments before. It was by tracking these bloody blips that we were able to find the wild dogs, resting under a tree, stomachs almost bursting with food.

What makes Laikipia particularly special is the access guests have to tracking equipment. Some of the dogs here wear collars, allowing guides to follow their movements closely. It’s a privilege you won’t find everywhere, and it dramatically increases the chances of witnessing these dogs in action. And Laikipia, with its off-the-beaten-path allure, allows for a kind of freedom you won’t get in many other places.

Wild dogs can be seen year-round in Laikipia, but your best chances of a close encounter happen during a seven-month window. This is when the pups leave the den to join the pack on hunts, a sight that’s as thrilling as it is rare. The breeding cycles of these canines aren’t strictly tied to the rains but are instead influenced by their ability to stay out of the crosshairs of larger predators. Typically, they breed every 11 months, meaning the timing of their litters shifts earlier with each passing year.

Known as Lycaon pictus, these painted wolves represent the untamed heart of Kenya’s wilderness. They are tireless hunters, driven by their connection to the pack. Yet, despite their strength and endurance, they remain one of the most endangered species on the continent. With only an estimated 3,000 to 5,500 individuals left, the fight to preserve them is ongoing.

In the 1990s, Laikipia’s wild dogs faced near extinction due to diseases like rabies and increasing conflict with pastoralists. By 2017, drought pushed herders and their domestic dogs into wild dog territory, sparking a devastating outbreak of canine distemper. Laikipia’s population was thought to be wiped out entirely.

But then, in a remarkable twist, hope returned. In 2018, a lone female was spotted roaming Mpala. Despite the odds, she had survived alone. Soon after, she was joined by two males, and together, they formed a new pack—the Phoenix Pack, rising quite literally from the ashes of extinction. Against all expectations, the female denned, giving birth to five pups. Since then, the wild dogs of Laikipia have slowly begun to recover. Today, the Phoenix Pack has grown to nearly 20 members, and the alpha female has denned once again, bringing new life and hope to the region.

In Laikipia, the story of the painted wolves continues—a narrative of survival, resilience, and the ever-present wildness of Africa.